I couldn't help but think about all the many phases I personally went through this week. From losing my dog of 14 years last Saturday, to the Veterans Day observances, and finally, dealing with this insane swell that we've been having. Talk about an emotional roller coaster ride. I've hit the highs and lows and twists and turns in under seven days. I've tried to jot down in words all the mixed feelings I've been experiencing all week to share with you all. And judging from your calls, emails, and FB postings, I seem to have hit a common trait with a lot of you.

It's been another Filter Free column from your favorite surf scribe this week. I think that's part of the reason why so many of you connect with this column. You know that when I produce these weekly missives, that you are going get exactly what's on my mind, or at the very least, hear about what I've been going through. The good and bad.

Sometimes I'm spitting venom, jumping up and down and causing a scene.

While other times, I'm relaying poignant messages about certain individuals in our surf community. And then there are the times when tragedy hits my household, and I pour my heart and soul out onto the streets. Tears and all. And I let you see it and feel it. Because it's real. And this column is clearly more than just about surfing. It's about life. Al be it in my eyes and opinions. Life as I see it.

But I don't pull any punches with any of you.

That's Filter Free blogging my friends. I'm sharing with you some of my most personal triumphs and tragedies. And I do this, knowing that each week I not only wear my heart on my sleeve, but I shine a light on it for all to see. I'm so beyond caring about whether or not someone thinks that by my sharing with you my grief and sorrow with the world, it somehow makes me less of a man in someone else's eyes.

Oh I am so over that. In fact, I could care less if anyone thinks any less of me if I shed a tear every now and then. This is a weekly blog/column about life. Our lives. And I'm not about to hold back now. I'll give you what I have every week. From my writing, to the hundreds of photos from some of the best photographers around, and finally, the video clips. It's all coming your way, with all the raw nerves exposed. And something tells me, most of you wouldn't expect anything less from me. I owe you that much.


On behalf of all the Surf VETERANS who live and work here in the community, and those who live abroad and other parts of the country I want to take the time again to say thank you for all their well wishes. We truly appreciate the thoughtful sentiments. My fellow Veteran and Surf Photographer Ed O'Connell, was blown away by the many greetings he got from local surfers. He was really moved by it. I'm sure that the other veterans who surf feel the same. We all thank you, from the bottom of our hearts.

So how about this swell this week? Whoa. It has (and still is) been one heck of a week.
There were so many different spots breaking up here that it was hard to keep up with it all. Suffice it to say, I got to surf some breaks that I had not surfed in sometime. I had some good days and some bad. It's funny how when you are having a good session it just seems to have a life of it's own.

My session yesterday was difficult to say the least.

I surfed a spot that is notorious for it's rip. It's almost impossible to stay lined up at this one particular reef. As it turned out I only got a handful of waves while three times as many waves got me. And at my age, taking waves on the head is never fun.

But today was a new day and I surfed the same break and I had just the opposite.

I was on today. From my first wave till my last. I was in some kind of positive sync and could do no wrong. I even got a nice barrel on my last wave. It surprised me how I was able to do what I did today but unable to do it yesterday. Momentum. Like in organized sports. I had it today. I actually had a bit of a skip in my walk, as I walked back to my vehicle today. I said hello to some elderly beach goers. I was polite enough to answer all their typical questions. "Yes it's cold but the wetsuit keeps me warm" type of exchanges. After the week I had. My son breaking his leg playing college Football and then my dog dying...I needed some positive reinforcement.

And it came in the form of a six foot wave. I guess it's true.
..."Surfing Heals All Wounds"

Now for some of my Weekly Global Observances:
So did I hear the news correctly a few days ago about the pending announcements of where and when they are going to put KSM on trial? Khalid Sheikh Mohammed the mastermind behind the September 11th 2001 attacks on US Soil is awaiting trial and now it seems that Attorney General Eric Holder may in fact try this bona fide lunatic in New York. After all the BS we just went through with the families of the victims of 9/11 we are going to reopen this can of worms because we owe it to KSM? Because we are more civilized than the Terrorists? Look call me old fashion. But here's what I would do if I was Obama. I would take Khalid "Sheikh My Booty" Mohammed to the top of a 100 story building and stick him in an office setting room with 6 inch glass windows. I would then light that room on fire with Jet Fuel and let KSM decide his own fate.

Break the Glass windows with an office chair and Jump, or burn to death.

And that my friends would be the end of that story. We would accomplish two things. We would save the tax payers millions of dollars by NOT having this insane circus trial on US soil, and save us all from having to listen to this lunatic spew forth his anti American and Anti Jewish rhetoric, while the same time we would be rid of this evil SOB once and for all/ Plus we would benefit greatly by having all of the other Radical Islamic Extremists in the world watch KSM's last pathetic moments here on earth.

72 virgins await you Khalid Sheikh Mohammed...just take the elevator to the top floor and await our instructions. I would also request that we have a designated family member of one of the victims of 9/11, light the match. While having family members of one of the firefighters who died that day hold the rescue net in case Khalid Sheikh Mohammed decided to jump. On second thought, that would be too dangerous. Best to have him take his chances hitting the pavement.

So the JETS won today. They beat the Browns in OT. Thank you Eric Mangenius...they had a chance to beat the JETS several times but they could not pull it off. Meanwhile we are now in 2nd place, and the PATS game tonight against the Steelers looms loud and clear. We NEEED to win. But alas my friends, we are in trouble. That was obvious last week in that debacle against the Browns.

Still, anything can happen in the NFL. Anything. Keep yer fingers crossed.

Randy Moss makes his third NFL debut today in Miami. The new Tennessee Titan plays the Dolphins today. Such a bizarre story. I mean this thing gets crazier and crazier each week. Yet we all watch it, over and over again. But it sure is weird.

I guess some more decent surf will cure us from all of these scenarios that we have No CONTROL over. That's what I'm banking on.

ANNOUNCEMENTS:
Due to the last week of waves, the NEW SURF FREE OR DIE MOVIE The RUN Redux will now be released on NOVEMBER 27, 2010. Trust me, I need to add this new additional footage I shot this week.

ANNOUNCEMENTS:
REST IN PEACE Andy Irons. November 2nd, 2010.
REST IN PEACE Scout (family pet) November 6th, 2010.
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Ralph